Private Policy, one of several fashion brands that has embraced the idea of genderless clothing, hit the runway at New York Fashion Week with a more anthropological sensibility than most marketers.
As it has since its founding in 2016, Private Policy is interested in more than just capturing attention and sales as it competes for the spotlight among established and upstart fashion houses. The overarching goal of founders Siying Qu and Haoran Li is to amplify one social topic in alignment with the brand’s identity.
On this month’s fall runways, the concept Private Policy settled on was “peace, love and freedom after a disaster.” The theme eerily anticipated the deadly hurricanes that have devastated the Caribbean and the state of Florida in recent days. Private Policy’s show incorporated the story of Noah’s Ark with pieces like netted workwear, sequins and mesh detailing to round out its mix of dark and colorful utilitarian pieces.
It’s a sensitive topic to navigate for a fashion show, and Qu and Li cast themselves as reporters during this process. Research is a key aspect of their creative process in formulating ideas for a collection and the program that follows.
Private Policy is one of three fashion partners—alongside Raul Lopez of Luar and jewelry designer ChrisHabana—advancing the theme of “Fluidity Is Freedom,” an initiative by alcohol giant Diageo “honoring gender identity through self-expression as a way to celebrate inclusion.” Through November, these fashion partners will explore clothing as a way to champion self-expression and challenge the status quo of societal gender norms.
Crafting the message
When Private Policy got off the ground a mere six years ago, Qu recalled encountering a frequent misunderstanding: that clothing is gendered and people can’t necessarily wear what they want.
“It’s just a jacket, it’s just a skirt, it’s just a dress,” she said. “We’re like, ‘Why does it have to be divided?’”
These days, the conversations about gender fluidity across industries are more candid. But the need for an ongoing dialogue about genderless wear remains constant for Private Policy. The brand aims to not only reflect its customers’ values but also help generate more awareness and acceptance.
The wider conversation about broadening ideas about gender is illustrated through the role of transgender and non-binary models in the entertainment Private Policy provides during fashion shows. For example, it invited RuPaul’s Drag Race star Pangina Heals to perform recently.
“We’re inspired by what we see on the street, by our team and community,” she said. “We reflect what people are thinking, what people want, and we offer that. That’s what fashion is about: empowering people and supporting what they really want.”
A toast to fashion and inclusion
When the opportunity arose to partner with Diageo and have its brands available at its New York Fashion Week events, Private Policy jumped on it. Qu and Li saw it as a way to expand Private Policy’s message to a wider audience.
This isn’t the first time the founders have done something like this. Private Policy has partnered with other companies and organizations such as Coca-Cola and The Ali Forney Center. The Fashion Week collaboration picks up from work Private Policy did with Diageo during AAPI Heritage Month in May. Diageo hosted a night market in New York City that featured food, cocktails, art, entertainment and clothing that the fashion brand took part in.
Reaching a larger audience and working across different disciplines is also a way for people to inspire one another about the idea that the concepts of diversity, being genderless or being gender fluid “is beyond just one thing.”
“It’s great for people to see that different industries are all supporting this,” she said. “That’s very powerful.”
On Diageo’s end, the “Fluidity Is Freedom” collaboration ties in with its Society 2030 mission. It’s based on a 10-year goal to create a positive impact within the company itself, as well as various communities and society overall. Accountability is a key attribute of that mission.
One way Diageo is keeping itself honest is by joining the United Nations’ Unstereotype Alliance and the World Federation of Advertisers’ diversity and inclusion task force. Those international organizations are premised on combatting harmful stereotypes in advertising and helping to ensure the industry’s diversity is reflected. In that sense, the two groups serve as “Good Housekeeping-type seals of approval” on diversity/equity/inclusion in marketing.
Phillip Pearson, director of multicultural experiences and partnerships at Diageo, told Adweek that Private Policy’s views simply aligned with Diageo’s and that’s what made this joint effort possible.
“More and more people across cultures and generations are boldly finding ways to express what feels true and authentic to them,” he said. “A world where everyone is included is the future we look to create, and we are energized and inspired to continue to work with partners who strive for greater inclusion by honoring the intersection of identity and expression.”
One particular takeaway from this experience has been seeing “just how powerful the fashion industry is—it goes beyond just the garment,” Pearson said. He advises other marketers looking to follow through on their diversity, equity and inclusion promises to exercise deeper thought and consideration regarding their intentions when pursuing an alliance outside of their industry.
“Be purposeful about utilizing the brand and platform to power positive social change,” he said. “Be [biased] toward honoring authenticity and what is true not for you, but for the consumer. And most importantly, be intentional and listen to your audience.”
Looking ahead to future Fashion Weeks, Qu would love to work with more companies outside of the fashion world to continue sharing Private Policy’s genderless fashion mission.
“The more we interact, the more of this idea of freedom will be amplified,” she said. “We’re really excited about that positive energy just flowing between different collaborations when we do them.”
