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As a kid, I was brought up on Chef Boyardee ravioli, among other canned, frozen and otherwise simulated foodstuffs. So the first time I was served ravioli at a respectable Italian restaurant, I was mystified: the fresh, handmade, flying-saucer-shaped dumplings stuffed with a savory mixture of cheeses and covered in a delicate sauce bore no resemblance to the postage-stamp-like, meat-stuffed squares of my youth.
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