Bennigan’s: Acting one’s age is so overrated

Casual-dining chains like Applebee’s, T.G.I. Friday’s and Bennigan’s are upsetting places. Is it the bogus enthusiasm? The “flair”? The pretense of neighborhoody charm? The food? It’s hard to pin down. There’s actually an Applebee’s in the Bronx, about five minutes from my apartment; I hope I never have to go in there.

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