Here’s a bit of news for those of you with a hankering for a new place at which to dine on gilded macaroni, lobster pot pie on a lightly dressed bed of old money, and, of course, truffle fries: the New York Times has reviewed The Lion.
The review, by the once-enigmatic (and now possibly regret-filled) Sam Sifton gave the relatively new eatery but one lonesome little star.
The Lion, as FishbowlNY readers are aware, was creating a buzz long before it opened its doors thanks to recognizable investors like NBC News’ chief legal analyst and Mediaite founder Dan Abrams and Men’s Health editor David Zinczenko, as well as its chef — John DeLucie, the man behind Graydon Carter’s Waverly Inn.
According to Sifton’s review, the place sounds like a Times Square “NY Media”-themed restaurant where the staff is perhaps required to wear such flair as buttons emblazoned with the slogan “Eat This, Not That” or clipped locks of Graydon Carter’s hair:
There is a bouncer in front every night, standing on the stairs that lead down into the restaurant’s cool, dark entranceway. The bar is crowded beyond belief with Delta Taus and other frat packers, men in distressed jeans aspiring to six-pack abs, women skating on the thin ice of fashion and yapping into mobile phones.
Nightmare. Since that’s not quite our “glass of pinot,” as Sifton puts it, and because it’s not like we were invited anyway, we will stick to eating beets and asparagus and pork belly and the like in Brooklyn. Where it’s safe. And where everyone we know in media lives anyway.