A meta-media moment

In today’s LA Weekly, Jonathan Gold reviews gr/eats, the restaurant owned by the Asian culture magazine/retail empire Giant Robot. He’s clearly a fan of the magazine, although he seems politely non-plussed by the food:

So the food at gr/eats is re-contextualized Asian-American home cooking: bland Thai shrimp curry and Japanese omelet rice; a mild Salvadoran seafood stew served over a yellow rice “paella” and slightly clumsy Vietnamese spring rolls wrapped in rice paper; a quite decent pan-seared Chilean sea bass drizzled with Asian pesto and squishy, salty, fried tofu “meatballs” painted with an orangey sweet-and-sour sauce.

So:

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