How Nutella Spread From Wartime Italy to the Tables of the World

A true Italian romance story

In March 1995, readers of The New Yorker happened across a Talk of the Town piece that, if it hadn't been about food, could easily have been about sex. Writer Andrea Lee evoked a product with an "animating spirit that takes it beyond its physical components." It was "more unctuous than peanut butter," with a "pillowy mildness that appeals to regressive urges."