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In March 1995, readers of The New Yorker happened across a Talk of the Town piece that, if it hadn't been about food, could easily have been about sex. Writer Andrea Lee evoked a product with an "animating spirit that takes it beyond its physical components." It was "more unctuous than peanut butter," with a "pillowy mildness that appeals to regressive urges."
Good heavens—what jar of stuff could be all these things? Only Nutella, of course.
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