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It’s a summer Friday morning in Manhattan, and Emmanuel Saujet has just settled into a corner table at the NoMad Hotel’s atrium restaurant. Though the Flatiron District hotel is hardly a cheap place to score breakfast (oatmeal will set you back $16 here), the NoMad has no dress code—jeans, polo shirts and hoodies predominate. Yet despite that, and despite the withering New York humidity outside, Saujet is attired in his usual way: a well-cut suit (sans tie), cuff links and loafers.

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