Big Beer Brands Are Fooling Us With Their Crafty Looks

Indie brewers want transparency

It’s a lazy Saturday afternoon, and here we sit in a Whole Foods quaffing pints of creamy craft beer—Old No. 38 Stout from North Coast Brewing in Fort Bragg, Calif., to be exact. About two dozen of us beverage aficionados crowd into a room constructed of locally salvaged wood that’s designed to feel like a rustic saloon from the Gold Rush era. The focus is on 16 taps, many for brews most of us have never heard of before. For a few bucks, one can get a taste, and for $5 to $11, a pint. Just outside this makeshift watering hole, shoppers with kids in tow pile their baskets with freshly ground coffee, organic cereal and free-range chickens.