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In these jittery times, I won’t be the only one who momentarily misreads “terroir” as “terror.” Seeing “France” in the same line doesn’t help, though more- sophisticated misreaders will think of Robespierre rather than Osama. Either way, the point remains that Topic A is now poised to intrude on our thoughts in unpredictable ways. Getting past that reaction, we find yet another of the wine industry’s attempts to ingratiate itself with us by sounding unpretentious.
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