Is Lucian Freud Mocking Château Mouton-Rothschild?

You be the judge. Since 1945, leading arists such as Georges Braque, Francis Bacon, and Ilya Kabakov have created original artworks for the label of Château Mouton Rothschild, the world-renowned claret produced on the Mouton vineyards in the French village of Pauillac. It was announced last week that Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, the owner of Mouton, had given the commission for the 2006 vintage, which hits stores this spring, to Lucian Freud. But the British painter didn’t whip up anything the least bit characteristically craggy or moody.