A la New York Times and Guy Fieri, L.A. Weekly restaurant critic Besha Rodell starts off with three consecutive questions. Our favorite involves her puzzlement over the fact that celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s PR folks refused to acknowledge the British insult echoes of his new Grove restaurant name (The Fat Cow).
From there, Rodell ditches the question marks in favor of full-on, why-why-why!?-subtext sentences as she ponders her $28 cheeseburger and more. The review is a heck of a fun read and one that though it may not affect the captive walk-in tourist trade for the establishment, could have Ramsay hollering a few choice new epithets.
Here’s one of our favorite passages:
Branzino ceviche was so besmirched by dollops of goo both green (avocado?) and yellow (horseradish?), it looked like a science experiment gone wrong. It was so disturbing it prompted me to take a picture and send it to a friend, who responded, “That looks malignant.”
The good news is that Rodell says the cocktails at The Fat Cow aren’t half bad. So anyone needing to obliterate the memory of a moooo-vable feast of malignant ceviche and other delicacies will have the tools for that exercise readily at hand. Read Rodell’s full review here.
Update – 11/20/12: Rodell, reacting to the attention directed at her ceviche comments, shared the following on Twitter: