Bennigan’s: Acting one’s age is so overrated

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Casual-dining chains like Applebee’s, T.G.I. Friday’s and Bennigan’s are upsetting places. Is it the bogus enthusiasm? The “flair”? The pretense of neighborhoody charm? The food? It’s hard to pin down. There’s actually an Applebee’s in the Bronx, about five minutes from my apartment; I hope I never have to go in there. Anyway, we read in Adweek this morning that Bennigan’s is celebrating its 30th anniversary. How are they going about it? “Internally, the company has dubbed 2006 ‘The return to cool.’

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